If you’re not in Seville during Semana Santa (Holy Week), then you may want to check out this quirky little bar to see just what it’s all about. Filled from floor to ceiling with religious paraphernalia, swirls of frankincense fill the air and a weeping Virgin greets patrons at the door. Pictures of Christ look down on visitors as they sip beers with Semana Santa marching music the main soundtrack of the night. Try the typical Agua de Sevilla, a type of cocktail containing pineapple juice, cava whisky, and Cointreau.
Seville Nightlife
With some of the country’s best nightclubs and tapas bars, Seville's nightlife scene ranges from fantastic flamenco and quintessential tapas bars to modern hip hop clubs.
Seville is an important flamenco centre and it would be a shame to leave the city without catching a show. The best are impromptu performances in traditional bars in the Santa Cruz area. A string of tapas bars are tucked within the district’s narrow alleys, especially along Calle Mateos Gago. Hop across to the other side of the river to find the trendiest clubs and bars lined along Calle Betis and Plaza Alfalfa, where most of the action continues until the early hours.
For more information on nightlife, see either Guia del Ocio (www.guiadelocio.com/sevilla) or El Giraldillo (www.elegirhoy.com) available from kiosks and bookshops.
Bars in Seville
Andalusia’s Moorish heritage means that it's not only architecture that has an Arabic touch. For a night out with a bit of a difference, head to this Moroccan-style teahouse filled with intricate Arabic arches, soft cushions and colourful lamps. There's an extensive tea menu to choose from, featuring infusions imported directly from Morocco. Teas are served in traditional silver pots and there are live belly dancing performances to enjoy every Friday and Sunday night.
As the oldest bar in Seville, El Rinconcillo is a classic tapas tavern and the favourite haunt for generations of Sevillanos. Dating back to 1670, the bar was converted from an old convent. The traditional décor – wooden furnishing, wrought iron chandeliers and mosaic tiles – has not changed much, retaining a pleasant sense of nostalgia. Although the restaurant is now flooded with tourists, it continues to serve excellent tapas and a wide range of liquor.
Clubs in Seville
Run by stalwarts of the music scene in Seville, this cavernous club focuses on rock, metal and drum and bass, with a regular roster of local and international live bands and DJs. They also run a record label, FunClub Records. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights; check the website for the schedule.
This fun disco in the hip, upcoming neighbourhood of Alameda de Hércules plays a range of music - pop, disco, dance classics - until very late to an over 30s, gay-friendly crowd. It's open Friday and Saturday nights.
This open-air nightclub in Parque Maria Luisa is a great place to go dancing on summer nights. It attracts a young, glamorous crowd and the music policy is strictly commercial. During the day it's a pleasant cafe serving tapas.
Live Music in Seville
Europe's largest open-air venue, El Auditorio Rocío Jurado, was first built to celebrate Seville's Expo in 1992. Situated on the Isla de la Cartuja, the auditorium plays host to a variety of performances from both international and local artistes. But this is not just a place for theatrical entertainment; its architecture itself makes a good reason to come for a visit. Designed by famous architect Don Eleuterio Poblacion, the complex features pure white marble flooring with an exceptionally large open-air space.
For some of the best live jazz music in the city, head to this cosy little club, which also features a music school upstairs. With live concerts and jam sessions every Friday and Saturday night, the bar also showcases a mix of blues and bossa nova too. The club may be a little far out of the city centre, but if you’re a true jazz aficionado, then the trip is certainly worth it.
Among the hosts of flamenco venues in Seville, La Carbonería has the best reputation. Many flamenco shows are unauthentic tourist traps, but La Carbonería is definitely the real thing. La Carbonería, meaning carbon storehouse, is a cave-like tavern that smells of history and culture. The front room features vintage furnishings and the works of local artists, while the back patio is where the performances are held. Better still: entry is free.
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