Getting around Peru
Domestic air travel is the most practical way to cover Peru's considerable distances, particularly given the altitude and road conditions in the Andes. LATAM Peru is the dominant domestic carrier and operates the most extensive network, with frequent services between Lima and Cusco, Arequipa, Iquitos, Trujillo, Piura, Cajamarca, Puerto Maldonado, Juliaca and several other cities. Sky Airline and Star Peru also serve selected domestic routes, offering competitive fares.
Lima to Cusco is the busiest domestic route and takes around 75 minutes. The altitude gain at arrival is immediate and significant: Cusco sits at 3,400 metres (11,155 ft) and altitude sickness is a real consideration. Many visitors choose to spend one or two nights in Lima before flying to the Andes, or to take their first night in Cusco very gently, giving the body time to acclimatise. The journey from Lima to Iquitos, the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by road, takes around 90 minutes by air and represents the only practical option for most visitors.
Domestic flights in Peru can be disrupted by weather, particularly in the mountains and the Amazon basin, where afternoon cloud can affect visibility and schedule. Flights to Cusco, in particular, are sensitive to weather conditions, and early-morning departures have a notably higher on-time rate than afternoon services. Booking in advance is advisable during the dry season peak from June to August, when aircraft are often full.
The Pan-American Highway runs the length of Peru along the Pacific coast, connecting major cities such as Lima, Trujillo and Arequipa, while a series of mountain roads cross the Andes towards Cusco, Puno and other highland destinations.
Several routes are notable for their scenery as much as their practicality. The drive between Cusco and Puno passes through high Andean plains dotted with lakes and traditional villages, while routes through the Sacred Valley offer views of terraced hillsides, mountain peaks and Inca ruins. In the north, roads winding through the Chachapoyas region traverse cloud forests and deep valleys, providing access to sites such as Kuelap.
Road quality in Peru varies considerably by region and route. The Pan-American Highway on the coast is the best-maintained road in the country and supports fast, reliable long-distance travel. Major highways between Lima and Cusco, and between principal Andean cities, have been improved in recent years and are generally passable, though steep gradients and curves call for caution. In the Amazon basin, road access is limited and many routes become impassable during heavy rain. Rural roads in highland and jungle areas can be in poor condition with unpaved sections, potholes and inadequate markings. Travellers using roads outside the main tourist corridors should seek local advice on current conditions, especially during the November to March wet season.
Peru's road network is classified into three main categories. National highways, prefixed PE, form the principal inter-regional routes including the Pan-American Highway (PE-1) and Interoceanic Highway. Departmental roads connect provincial towns and cities within each department and vary considerably in quality. Rural (vecinal) roads serve local communities and are often unpaved. Toll booths operate on several sections of the main national highway network, particularly on routes between major cities.
Car hire is available in Lima from major international rental companies at the Jorge Chávez International Airport and in the Miraflores and San Isidro districts. In Cusco, Arequipa and a small number of other cities, both international and local rental firms operate. Self-driving is a practical option for exploring the coastal desert, the Colca Canyon area around Arequipa, and some routes in the north. A valid driving licence from the country of residence is accepted for short stays, though some rental companies additionally request an International Driving Permit.
Before hiring a car, confirm what insurance is included and what excess applies. Gravel and off-road driving may invalidate basic cover in some policies. Vehicles for the highlands should ideally have good ground clearance. Roadside assistance coverage is essential and should be confirmed with the rental company before departure.
Taxis in Peru are widespread but largely unregulated and do not follow a uniform colour scheme in most cities. Official metered taxis are in the minority, so it is standard practice to negotiate the price before boarding. Fares are significantly lower than in Europe or North America, but having a rough sense of standard rates in each city helps avoid overcharging.
Lima airport taxis are a particular case. Official taxi counters in the arrivals hall at Jorge Chávez Airport offer pre-paid journeys to various zones of Lima at fixed rates, which are clearly displayed. This is the recommended approach for first arrivals; it avoids the persistent approach of informal taxi touts outside the terminal and provides a confirmed price before any commitment. From Miraflores to the airport, allow a minimum of 1 hour in normal traffic and 2 hours during the morning or evening peak periods.
Ride-hailing apps operate widely in Lima, Cusco, Arequipa, Trujillo and several other cities. Uber, inDriver and Cabify all function in major urban areas. The apps provide an estimate before the ride, reducing negotiation and providing a digital record of the journey. In smaller cities and towns, traditional negotiated taxis remain the norm.
Cycling as a practical means of inter-city transport is uncommon in Peru and is not recommended for most visitors. Lima's traffic is dense and the city lacks meaningful cycling infrastructure outside a few corridors in Miraflores and Barranco. In the Andes, the combination of high altitude, steep gradients and mountain roads makes cycling demanding, though it has a following among experienced cycle tourers and is offered as a guided downhill excursion in certain areas such as the descent from the Sacred Valley.
Within specific areas, cycling is more viable. The Miraflores Malecon in Lima has a cycle path with ocean views. Some Sacred Valley towns are manageable on two wheels on flat stretches. Mountain biking is offered as an activity at a number of Cusco-area operators, with the descent from the Inca sites down to the cloud forest below a popular guided day trip.
Long-distance bus travel is extensively used in Peru and, on the main routes with reputable operators, offers a comfortable and affordable way to travel. Cruz del Sur and Oltursa are the most well-regarded operators on the coastal highway routes and between Lima and the principal Andean cities, offering reclining sleeper seats on overnight services and meal service on longer journeys. Peru Hop is a tourist-oriented coach network designed mainly for foreign visitors, linking destinations such as Lima, Paracas, Arequipa, Cusco and Puno, with English-speaking guides and flexible stop options along the route.
In Lima, the principal bus terminals for long-distance services are Plaza Norte, Javier Prado and Yerbateros. Travellers should always verify which terminal their specific company uses, as the distances between these terminals can be considerable.
Traffic in Peru drives on the right-hand side of the road. Speed limits are 30 km/h (19 mph) in residential areas, 60 km/h (37 mph) on urban roads and up to 100 km/h (62 mph) on national highways outside urban areas, unless otherwise indicated. Traffic enforcement is variable, but speed cameras and police checkpoints do operate on major routes. In Lima, the traffic is notorious for its density and informality; pedestrians and drivers both need to remain vigilant at intersections.
Seat belts are compulsory for drivers and all passengers. Using a mobile phone while driving is prohibited. Drink-driving laws are in place, with a legal blood alcohol limit of 0.05 g/100ml. Traffic police checkpoints are common on intercity routes, particularly at night, and drivers should ensure all vehicle and travel documents are accessible.
Peru does not have a national automobile association comparable to the AA in the UK. Roadside assistance is primarily provided through vehicle rental agreements, insurance companies and a number of private roadside assistance operators in larger cities. TOURING Automóvil Club del Perú provides some services to members, but coverage outside major cities is limited.
For visitors in hire cars, the rental company is the first point of contact in the event of a breakdown, accident or flat tyre. Confirm the emergency contact number and the breakdown procedure before leaving the hire company. On remote routes, particularly in the highlands and the Amazon, carrying basic supplies including water, a charged mobile phone and, on longer mountain drives, emergency roadside items is advisable.
Foreign drivers may use their valid national driving licence for short stays in Peru, as recognised in the Lima Agreement to which Peru is a signatory. An International Driving Permit (IDP) is recommended as a supplement, particularly for rental cars, as some companies require it. If your licence is not in Spanish, carrying a certified translation or an IDP alongside the original is advisable in the event of a traffic stop.
Drivers should carry their passport or a copy of their identity document, the vehicle registration and insurance documents, and, if using a hire car, the rental agreement. Third-party insurance is required for vehicles operating in Peru.
In Lima, urban transport is a mix of the formal and informal. The Metropolitano is an articulated bus rapid transit system running north-south through the city from Chorrillos to Independencia, with a dedicated lane and pre-paid entry through turnstiles; it is reliable and reasonably fast for the corridor it serves. El Metro de Lima, a surface-level metro line, runs east-west across the southern districts. The vast majority of Lima's urban journeys, however, are handled by a sprawling network of private buses and combis, small minibuses following set routes with no official stops and a helper calling destinations from the door. This network is cheap and ubiquitous but challenging for newcomers to navigate.
In Cusco, the historic centre is compact and best explored on foot, as most streets in the old town are narrow and often pedestrianised or restricted. Taxis are widely used for journeys between the city and surrounding archaeological sites and districts.
In Arequipa, the historic centre is also largely walkable, with taxis and buses handling longer journeys. In Iquitos, mototaxis, three-wheeled motorcycle taxis, are the predominant form of local transport and give the city a distinctive character.
Rail plays a specific and important role in Peru's tourist infrastructure, even though the national network is limited. The most significant service for visitors is the train from Ollantaytambo or Poroy, near Cusco, to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. PeruRail and Inca Rail are the two operators on this route, offering different levels of service from standard to the luxurious Hiram Bingham train with dining car and open-roof observation. Booking this journey in advance is essential, as seats sell out weeks or months in advance during peak season.
The Andean Explorer, operated by PeruRail, is a luxury overnight service between Cusco and Puno via Lake Titicaca, running through spectacular highland scenery and arriving in Puno after approximately ten hours. The journey can be done by bus in roughly the same time, but the train version transforms it into a highlight rather than a transit. A separate PeruRail service connects Arequipa and Puno. These luxury rail options are a meaningful part of the experience for visitors on unhurried itineraries.
Water transport is a defining part of travel in the Peruvian Amazon. In Iquitos, all surface transport to and from the city is by river, and passenger ferries to Nauta, Yurimaguas and other riverside communities are a regular part of daily life. Hammock-class passages on slower cargo boats offer an unfiltered way to experience the river, while faster speedboats serve routes between lodges and communities. Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake at 3,812 metres (12,507 ft), is crossed by regular passenger boats and slower ferries between Puno and the Bolivian shore at Copacabana, with stops at the Uros floating islands along the way.
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