Things to see in Cairo

It’s necessary to venture close to the revolutionary hotbed of Tahrir Square in order to see one of the jewels in Cairo’s crown: the Egyptian Museum. Inside there are some 120,000 artefacts from the birth of Egypt, culminating in the Greco-Roman phase, and it’ll take the best part of a day to cover the whole museum. The highlight has to be the near-intact tomb of Tutankhamun, regarded as perhaps the most significant archaeological discovery in history. It’s full to brimming with intricate jewellery, and includes the stunning gold and gem-inlaid funerary mask.

Some of the most impressive architecture of the Fatimid period can be found in Al-Azhar. The district is demarked by colossal gates and square towers – remnants of the old enclosure walls. Beyond them are five important mosques, including the Mosque of Al-Hakim and the Mosque of Al-Azhar. The latter was erected in AD970 as the crowning achievement of the new Fatimid city, and its madrassa is regarded as one of the world’s oldest educational institutions, drawing learners from across the Islamic world. It finds an interesting counterpoint in the severe, military style of Al-Hakim, which was completed in 1013.

Of all the mosques in Cairo, this one is unmissable. Completed in 879 AD, it is the oldest intact mosque in the city. The huge structure, built of mud-brick and wood, covers 2.4 hectares (6 acres). Its elegance is in its simplicity, with pointed arches the first of their kind. It is a unique example in Cairo of classical Islamic architecture inspired by Iraqi models, having been built by Ibn Tulin, who was sent to rule Cairo by the caliph of Baghdad. The views from the top of the spiral minaret are magnificent and don’t forget to tip the attendant who allows access.

Ringed by an important thoroughfare in the heart of downtown, Midan Al-Tahrir or ‘Liberation Square’ has been a symbol of protest since the Egyptian Revolution of 1919. Though tourists came here in the past largely for the Egyptian Museum, it’s now recognised across the world as the birthplace of Egypt’s 2011 revolution against Hosni Mubarak’s 30-year rule. It is now relatively quiet, though the situation can change quickly and it’s a good idea to keep abreast of the news if considering a visit. Though caution is advised and demonstrations should be avoided, the square is compelling for its graffiti, eclectic visitors from almost all walks of Egyptian life, and festival atmosphere on many afternoons.

The ancient gate of Bab Zuwayla is all that remains of the Fatimid city of Al-Qahira’s southern frontier. Executions took place here in Mameluke times but in the 19th century it acquired a happier reputation when a local saint, Mitwalli, performed miracles near the gate. To this day, people seeking healing nail a lock of hair or piece of clothing to the gate in hopes of receiving divine aid. Rising above the gate are the minarets of the Mosque of Al-Muayyad, which offer some of the finest panoramic views in Cairo from the top. The mosque contains a shady courtyard and the mausoleum of the Sultan Al-Muayyad and his son, who began building the mosque in 1415.