Review: Summer Lodge Country House Hotel, Dorset

Summer Lodge Country House Hotel © Red Carnation Hotels

Summer Lodge Country House Hotel has the kind of name that conjures up warm, lazy evenings lounging about in an English country garden, Pimms and lemonade in hand, the gentle scent of summer flowers wafting in the breeze. No matter that it had rained more or less continuously since we started our two-and-a-half hour drive from London.

As we pulled through the hotel gates the rain let up, giving us an unadulterated view of the 18th-century manor house nestled snugly within four acres of land. The trees that lined the hotel's drive twinkled with lights and the clipped bushes that edged the walled garden were lit up, creating a magical and romantic feel.

As we parked the car we saw the roof of the indoor swimming pool, and through a hedge I caught a glimpse of a tennis court. Perhaps it would stop raining long enough for us to play a set. As we opened the boot of the car, one of the attentive members of staff miraculously materialised to help us with our bags. Check-in was completely unlike a hotel as we were walked straight to our room, and our key was brought to us - a hassle-free start to our stay.

The hotel has 24 individually decorated rooms within three different buildings. Our suite in the Coach House was beautiful, with elegant chintz bedspreads, sumptuous silk wall coverings and thick carpet underfoot. The funky silver gilt furniture and ornate mirrors added a touch of glamour to the posh country house ambience. Double doors led to a conservatory that was both airy and warm (no mean feat this winter). This in turn led to a tiny private terrace that would no doubt be perfect for summer evenings. The basket of fruit with a welcome note from the manager seemed to bode well for my healthy break, but I hadn't counted on the restaurant.

Chef Steven Titman has three AA rosettes with a menu that highlights the availability of excellent Dorset produce and seafood (the coast is a 40-minute drive away) to produce traditional English dishes with a European twist. Here was where my resolve to detox wavered.

It could have been the delicate, light-as-a-feather cheese straw, juicy mini-hamburger and succulent grilled prawn that accompanied our pre-dinner aperitif. Or it might have been Stephen's signature dish, roast loin of Dorset lamb and braised shoulder Shepherd's Pie on the main menu, but all of a sudden, I realised that I didn't want to request a lighter menu (which guests are welcome to do). It would be unfair to the efforts of the kitchen staff surely?

With numerous activities offered at the hotel, I could simply make more effort on the second part of my detox idea - exercising all the food off. With that decision made, I scoffed Lyme Bay scallops, Shepherd's Pie and a trio of English apples for pudding - all of which were delicious, with portions thankfully small enough to alleviate my guilt. I even found room for cheese when I saw the sheer variety of soft, smelly parcels virtually begging to be sampled.

Back under the Belgium linen sheets, thoughtfully turned down for us by the legions of staff that appeared and disappeared as if by magic, I resolved that tomorrow would be different.

It was different. For one, it had stopped raining and the sun came out. We ate breakfast in the airy conservatory, but try as I might, I couldn't order the continental breakfast. It looked delicious, but the full English with its meaty sausages, crisp bacon and perfectly poached eggs won me over.

Most of the other guests were couples like us, ranging from the newly retired to young professionals. There were also some families with young children enjoying the relaxed but elegant atmosphere. We didn't spot any celebrities, but according to the hotel manager we'd just missed Jack Dee. Previous A-list guests have included Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Thomson, Greg Wise and Hugh Laurie.

While the tennis court still looked hazardous from the previous day's rain, we found we could take bicycles on one of several tours the hotel had thoughtfully printed out. Again, the staff were amazing, producing bikes and helmets with remarkable speed. We set off through the lush Dorset countryside exploring tiny country lanes, enclosed by thick hedgerows, breathing in the fresh air as we pedalled up and down hills.

After a brief lunch in a picturesque nearby village, we wandered back to the hotel to change. Staff had managed to squeeze me in for a half-hour massage (£40). With just two treatment rooms, it gets very busy on weekends so it's best to book treatments in advance. I enjoyed an aromatherapy back massage in a calming, low-lit room. My masseur used delicious-smelling Elemis essential oils and kneaded me with just the right amount of pressure.

After my relaxing treatment, I flopped into the Jacuzzi to soak for a while before venturing into the sauna for a spot of detoxing, Finnish style. There was a small, air-conditioned gym which I confess I didn't use, and a heated pool which dominates the whitewashed summerhouse in which it sits.

Summer Lodge might have provided too many temptations for me to truthfully call my break a detox, but for a relaxing spa break in an idyllic country house, it was perfect.

Summer Lodge Country House Hotel, Restaurant and Spa
Evershot, Dorset, DT2 OJR
Tel: (019) 3548 2000.
Website: www.summerlodgehotel.com
Prices start at £200 per night for a classic room (based on two sharing).