Review: The Salthouse Harbour Hotel, Ipswich

Copper bath © The Salthouse Harbour Hotel

Sinking into a bubble-filled bath, glass of champagne in hand, looking out through French windows to the twinkling night-time harbour below, it seems rather surreal that I'm in Ipswich.

Less than an hour ago, I was trudging out of the Suffolk town's well-trodden train station, on a particularly drizzly Friday evening, towards a grey backdrop of concrete office blocks and a small tornado of discarded crisp packets.

But a 10-minute walk to the waterfront changes all: the noise of commuter traffic fades as cracked concrete is replaced by a tidy quayside, and flocks of polished yachts glint in soft lighting. In this clean, simple setting lies the Salthouse Harbour Hotel - my home for the weekend - a revamped warehouse on the edge of the harbour, decked out as a 4-star boutique hotel.

A red-brick exterior retains the building's original charms, while inside a bevy of well-turned-out guests mingle in a glass-sided lobby, spotted with contemporary artwork, and set against the chatter of the hotel's adjacent restaurant.

A few floors up, and the chocolate browns and burnt oranges of our Sail Loft Marina room are offset by the spotless white covers of a generous kingsize bed, topped with fittingly puffed-up pillows and facing a 32-inch flatscreen TV.

But the room's most impressive feature is a free-standing copper bath, located just a few feet from the expansive bed, and perfectly positioned for clear views across the harbour.

The Salthouse certainly know how to entice their guests to stay clean; the adjoining bathroom - with toasty underfloor heating and non-steam mirrors - features a wetroom shower with ‘rain head' (which basically means turn the tap, and the heavens expel a torrent of warm water). Thick white bathrobes and fluffy white towels complete the luxury.

While the room's snazzy bathing features make for an exceptionally luxurious feel, what transports the Salthouse from very good 4-star hotel, to stand-out stay, is the restaurant.

I'm not entirely sure how the fusion of quite masculine contemporary design with rustic, African-esque touches works; but it really, really does.

A central section of snaking S-shaped black leather seating creates several little alcoves, and is surrounded by numerous tables which are all full and lively from very early evening. Paint-spattered canvasses, wood carvings and sculptures offer an eclectic backdrop to the fresh-faced staff and buoyant atmosphere, and the overall effect is both animated and stylish. Think classy girls' night out, special birthday dinner or romantic meal for the young-at-heart couple.

With a heavy Mediterranean accent, the menu is comprised of locally sourced ingredients: roasted pepper and goat's cheese bruschetta; gnocchi with butternut squash and spinach; tomato and basil soup with olive crostini.

The scallops are as good as any I have tasted: succulent and pan roasted, served with a light pea risotto and crispy pancetta. A starter of seared peppered beef fillet on a roquette and parmesan salad is equally successful.

A main dish of slow-cooked lamb cutlet comes as soft as butter, but it is the wild sea bass - two slabs of gleamingly fresh fish - that is the highlight. A cheese board laden with four cheeses from Neal's Yard Dairy, including a deliciously smooth and lactic Innes Log, is a perfect savoury end to a meal.

The continental breakfast in bed - fresh croissants, pain au chocolat and toast, with an assortment of jam, honey and maramalade, laid out on a thick wooden tray - comes highly recommended, although those wanting something more meaty can opt for a full English.

Rolling Suffolk greenery is a short drive away. But, with just our feet for transport, we spend the morning wandering the town centre - which doesn't appear to have a lot to say for itself other than a nice weekend food market - and then opt for an afternoon of reading the paper, nibbling olives procured from the market, and sipping complimentary Earl Grey as the fresh harbour air wafts through the open French windows. Pretty darn pleasant.

After dining at the hotel once more - this time a rich wild mushroom and artichoke risotto drizzled with truffle oil - we grab a spot alongside a couple of Ipswich footballers in the lobby area (this is clearly where the area's high-flyers go to socialise) and polish off a second bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from the ample wine list.

Such a high level of service and quality found anywhere near central London would be set at an extortionate price. So for an affordable luxury UK break, where the most taxing things on the agenda are relaxing with a paper, and sipping champagne from a bubble bath, then Salthouse Harbour Hotel definitely gets a big thumbs up.

Salthouse Harbour Hotel
Neptune Quay
Ipswich, Suffolk IP4 1AX
Tel: (01473) 226 789.
Website: www.salthouseharbour.co.uk
Prices start from £100 per night (based on two sharing).