Review - Riad Tizwa Fes

Fes market © Creative Commons / protographer23

Bought and restored by British brothers in 2007, the nine-room riad - typically, a traditional Morrocan home based around a central tiled courtyard - offers an immediately relaxing prospect. Guests are welcomed with a cup of tea and that indispensable item: a street map.

With thousands of unmarked streets outside, Fes's old medina is a navigational challenge. Although our housekeeper took her time explaining routes to local attractions, we decided to opt for a local guide instead and she was happy to arrange one immediately.

No two rooms are the same at Riad Tizwa. We began our stay in room three, a decent-sized double on the first floor. The four-poster bed looked gorgeous in the dappled low light, and proved to be very comfortable. There were modern trimmings such as a full-length mirror and a hairdryer.

We loved the combination of pretty, traditional mosaic tilework in the bathroom/shower room (with the accent on blues and greens) teamed with bright, modern metallics such as gold sinks. Poor drainage, however, meant the bathroom floor remained wet long after a shower. The consolation was an adjoining changing room.

Our friend was booked into room four where the bedroom steps led straight out onto a roof terrace. It was a large, two-tier, plant-lined haven. With its cosy snugs and relaxing sofas, we discovered the roof terrace was a great spot for an evening drink under the stars.

The next morning, we were up on the top deck drinking in the stunning view of the city and the surrounding hills. A friendly member of staff - most were local - brought us freshly squeezed orange juice, yoghurt, cereal, Moroccan-style pancakes, tea, coffee and pastries. Yum. Guests can opt for a two- or three-course traditional evening meal from about £15 per person.

Thanks to the staff, we booked a reliable driver for our overnight sightseeing trip to Meknes.

When we returned to Riad Tizwa for our final night, we tried out two different rooms: seven and eight. They're not usually booked out at the same time - they share a bathroom - but we found the adjoining rooms convenient, restful as well as attractive.

One of the downsides to staying in a riad where rooms overlook the courtyard was it was easy to hear other guests arriving and departing. However, when we shut your windows, noise wasn't much of a problem. We spotted English and French guests - mainly couples or small groups of mature travellers. No children, but we were told kids were very welcome.

We didn't catch sight of a single television during our stay at Riad Tizwa. They did have Wi-Fi, but requested that we confined laptop use to our rooms. Perhaps this was to maintain the place's organic feel: Tizwa strives to be eco-conscious. As well as recycling, using local products made from natural materials and watering plants with rainwater during the winter, there was detailed energy-saving advice in each room and guests were encouraged to use public transport. The owners were even lobbying for an overnight Fes-Marrakech train as an alternative to flying.

Their efforts are having an impact: Riad Tizwa and its sister property in Marrakech were Morocco's first officially recognised environmentally friendly riads after scooping the Clef Vert green label for tourism award.

Both aesthetically pleasing and eco-friendly, Riad Tizwa offers a welcoming, characterful and guilt-free stay.

Riad Tizwa
Batha, Fes
Tel: 079 7323 8444 (UK); +212 (0) 668 190 872 (Morocco).
Website: www.holidayfes.com

Prices start from £50 per night for a double room (two sharing).