Entrance and relaxation room © The Porchester Spa

As soon as you enter through the imposing wooden door of The Porchester Spa, the Victorian interior, with its high ceilings, arches and white and green tiles, instantly makes you feel like you've just stepped back in time. But would London's oldest spa meet the expectations of a modern working girl? Coralie Modschiedler finds out.

When I arrive in the 81-year-old spa, crowds of women are chatting away in the relaxation area that doubles as a changing room, and even a dining room at times (there is a kitchen serving basic but warm meals throughout the day). It's a bit too crowded for my liking but it is a Sunday, so you might want to visit on a week day instead (the spa is open daily until 2200).

I quickly make my way to the characterful central marble staircase, leading me in style to the equally busy underground steam and treatment rooms. With two Russian steam rooms, three Turkish hot rooms, a Finnish sauna cabin and an ice-cold plunge pool, I don't know where to start.

I finally plump for the first steam room (my favourite) where a couple of women are lying on the wood benches, completely naked. Yes, if you're visiting on a women-only day, expect some nudity of all ages so if you're prudish about baring all, this is not a place for you. After building a sweat for 15 minutes, I bravely (but briefly) plunge into the ice-cold waters of the small pool. There's no better way to revive your senses. Challenging but definitely worth it, as this extreme stimulation of the body is not only invigorating, but also good for your health.

As I walk around and experience each of the Turkish hot rooms where the temperature increases every time I change rooms, I can't fail but notice that even though this spa seems very popular, it doesn't boast the most immaculate surroundings to relax, unwind and get pampered.

Don't expect a comfy bathrobe and ambient music. The Porchester Spa is a council-run, traditional spa for Londoners to detox, catch up with friends and enjoy no-nonsense treatments at affordable prices. Make sure you bring some flip flops, as the relaxation area is awash with visitors wearing (sometimes less-than-clean) footwear.

Time for my exfoliation. As I lay on the cool marble table in a big private white room, Vanessa, my therapist, warns that the body scrub may feel a bit rough on the skin. Rough it certainly is. I worry my skin is about to be peeled off. After some serious scrubbing using a special Moroccan mitt for what feels like an eternity but is actually only 10 minutes, all that is left is dead skin cells which the therapist rinses with a body conditioner.

Freshly buffed, it's time for my next treatment: a therapeutic back massage. The therapist leads me to a small treatment room opposite the sauna. I know my shoulders feel tense but I'm amazed at the number of stress ‘knots' I have. After half an hour of - at times, slightly painful - pummelling, I feel lighter, relaxed and, surprisingly, energised. All treatments must be booked one week in advance and paid directly to the therapists.

As I catch up with the latest gossip in Grazia back in the relaxation room, I definitely feel cleansed and body beautiful for my beach holiday the following week.

The Porchester Spa is ideally located minutes away from the buzzing Bayswater area, famous for its cosmopolitan community and top restaurants, and within short walking distance of Hyde Park. It may lack luxury trimmings but London's oldest spa still delivers in buckets for those seeking relaxation.

The Porchester Spa
Queensway, London W2 5HS
Tel: (020) 7792 3980.
Website: www.nuffieldhealth.com/Individuals/Community-Fitness/The-Porchester-Spa
Prices: A day at the spa for a non-member costs £23. Treatment prices start from £15 for a Moroccan body scrub and £24 for a 30-minute massage. See full list of treatments here.

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