Review: La Kitchen, Madrid

Eat within atmospheric surroundings © La Kitchen

Located along the winding streets of Cheuca, the restaurant's décor is very much in keeping with the archaic, cobbled streets outside. With a neutral colour palette of arched stone walls, vaulted ceiling, slate tiles and brown leather chairs, the furnishings compliment the long, cavernous, tunnel structure very well. The soft music and low lighting is enough to lull any diner into a happy trance.

La Kitchen attracts a young, glamourous Madrid crowd. Lunchtimes are said to revolve around business meetings and well-dressed 'ladies who lunch', but as soon as the lights are turned down, couples looking for an atmospheric spot stream in, followed by chic locals catching up over a mellow bottle of wine.

La Kitchen prides itself on teaming Catalan flavours with international cuisine, using the freshest seasonal produce. While perusing the menu, we were served some delicious appetisers and warm bread to keep us going while some incredible dishes wafted past our table.

In direct contrast to the understated surroundings, our starters landed in front of us in a blur of colour. The crimson carpaccio of ox filet fanned out generously onto the plate, with lush green rocket, shavings of parmesan and ripe cherry tomatoes cutting through the rich meat, all dressed with delicate white truffle oil. Similarly, the mini torta de la serena cheese with toast and vegetables proved a perfect balance of sin and virtue - the warm, baked cheese oozing onto the plate, accompanied by brightly coloured, crunchy crudities.

With so many tempting main dishes on the menu, I was concerned that the presentation and standards of food enjoyed in the first course could not be maintained. This was short lived, as my succulent magret duck breast arrived, marinated in Chinese five spice, and draped over sweetly stir-fried vegetables. Thankfully the duck wasn't swamped in fat, as can often be the case.

My dining partner ordered the beef wellington and when it arrived I had severe food envy. It was light, the crisp shell encasing a tender piece of beef. If this wasn't enough, it was accompanied by a generous serving of luxurious foie gras and some refreshing spinach on the side.

A well-priced Rioja was picked from the wine list, which rightly consisted of Spanish wines. While the list wasn't extensive, it did include decent bottles of red, rosé, white, international wines, cava and champagne.

La Kitchen is renowned for its dessert menu. It included some wickedly, sumptuous treats ranging from chocolate mousse to warm apple tart and montecado (buttery prune) ice cream. We decided to share the strawberry panacotta with chocolate and hazelnut shortbread and the vanilla cheesecake with mixed red fruit sauce. The panacotta was so delicately flavoured and beautifully offset with the shortbread that the disappointingly heavy cheesecake, which tasted more of bread than anything else, was forgiven.

While the venue acted as the perfect choice for an intimate night out for two, La Kitchen also offers a group menu which is fantastic value at €47 per person including wine. There is also a daily set menu at €16 per person for those on a tighter budget.

It's not the cheapest eatery in Madrid but there are lots of different dishes, ranging from soup of the day for €8, to the beef wellington at €24.50 - something for everyone. This fashionable restaurant fills up fast, so booking is highly recommended.

Happy and full, we ended our night of indulgence at La Kitchen on a high and left the soothing buzz of the restaurant for the frenetic, lively streets of Chueca outside. The attentive service, warm ambience, quality of food and presentation, ensure that a night at La Kitchen is a night in Madrid well spent.

La Kitchen, Madrid
C/ Prim 5, 28004 Madrid, Spain
Tel: (+34) (091) 360 4974.
Website: www.lakitchen.es
Price: Our three-course meal, plus wine, was €49 per person.

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