Review - Klassz Budapest

Klassz is one of the capital's top bistros © Klassz

Situated close to the Opera House, it has arguably become Budapest's top bistro in the two years since it opened.

Its popularity however is Klassz' biggest drawback, as the restaurant doesn't accept reservations. This means you could be in for a lot of standing around on a busy night. However, as I have discovered time and time again, it's worth the wait.Taking a seat by the oversized front windows, I order a glass of rosé sparkling wine from Somló (a tiny Hungarian wine region); it always seems like the best way to start an evening here. The restaurant is bustling, with casually dressed servers whisking through the room. Walls are covered with different patterns of floral wallpaper (which sounds odd, but it works) and the lighting is industrial. A window at the top of the rear wall provides a glimpse into the kitchen; only the fluorescent lighting and oven hoods are visible. In the middle of the dining room, cases of wine are stacked up in front of the bar, giving it a permanently makeshift appearance. Like the décor, the vibe here is stylishly relaxed.

The tasty house-made bread is the first sign of good things to come. Klassz' single page menu is a dramatically welcome departure from the typically extensive menus beloved by the country's restaurants. Specialising in seasonal dishes, it features mainly international fare with a Hungarian accent. Despite its brevity, making a decision among the well-executed dishes is not easy.

To start, there are soups like hearty goulash and elegant consommé served in a small copper pot, and salads topped with goat cheese or foie gras. Foie gras is a common Hungarian ingredient, and is often also featured as a main course, sautéed gently until the center remains slightly pink.

One of the mainstays on the menu is duck breast, also cooked to perfection. On a previous visit, I had enjoyed the meat served with blinis and red currant sauce. This time, the duck was accompanied by plums in red wine sauce and polenta, a far better combination.

Another irresistible Klassz classic is fried pullet supreme, an outrageously crispy piece of tender chicken, often served with a salad and potatoes. The Mangalica pork, a special Hungarian heritage breed, is also worth sampling.

When it comes to wine, diners are in for a treat. The restaurant is connected with Bortársaság, the country's leading wine retailer. The wine list is mainly Hungarian, with a wide range of prices and options ranging from bone-dry reds to tooth-achingly sweet wines from the famed Tokaj region.

One of my favorites happens to be the cheapest on the menu: an Italian Riesling (Olaszrizling) by Gellavilla costing £6. For something more substantial, try a red from the southern Hungarian region of Szekszárd or Villány. Best of all, wine is also on sale to take away.

Just as Klassz started on a high note, it equally provides perfect endings. For a not-so-sweet tooth, the cheese selection is worth considering but I head straight to the dessert list. Fresh fruit features heavily, from an autumn plum tart tatin with cinnamon ice cream to a luscious summer strawberry tart. Without hesitation, I tuck in. After all, I can always burn off the calories with a post-dinner stroll along Andrássy út.

Klassz
Andrássy út 41, 1061 Budapest, Hungary
Website: www.klassz.eu/index.php
Price: A three-course meal for two, with wine, costs around £40.