Hotel Peristil's unique location © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

It's not often that you wake up to the magical sounds of church bells and prayers after sleeping in a hotel sharing walls with an ancient Roman palace.

After taking the night train from Zagreb along the Adriatic Coast, we finally reach one of Croatia's most smiting cities: Split. Our hotel's location could not be more perfect: just 10 minutes' walk from both the train station and the ferry terminal, Hotel Peristil was built within the walls of Diocletian's Palace in the heart of the Old Town and steps away from the waterfront.

From the moment we arrive, we feel warmly welcomed. Although it is very early (not even 0800!), the room is ready and the helpful staff help us up the stairs with our luggage. Simple and clean, room 303 oozes charm despite its small size. We open the windows to reveal cloudless blue skies, sea, mountains, red rooftops and the cathedral. The bathroom window - shower room actually - overlooks the Roman ruins and street market below. Perfect.

Top-quality bed linen, original artwork on the walls and brass fittings in the small but sparkling shower room give the place a pseudo-period character. Pick rooms 204 or 304 if you want to caress exposed stones of the 1,700-year-old Roman palace at no extra cost.

After a short nap, the mass taking place on the steps of the cathedral and the accompanying bell ringing is the best wake up call. The city is calling us and, map in hand, it's time to explore Split. 

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea and backed by the rugged Dinaric Mountains, this splendid Dalmatian city resembles a living museum. Everything is within easy reach of the hotel and our tour ends on the palm-lined seafront promenade (known as the Riva here), immediately south of the Old Town.

One of the hotel's finest existing features is Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor. The fish is excellent and the décor is charming. Tables are laid with Versace china, while an ancient amphora and original artworks grace the walls - check out the toilets for more exposed Roman stonework.

Breakfast - eggs or cereals, fruits, bread and a selection of Croatian jams - is served in the restaurant and in summer on the limestone terrace surrounded by the hotel and palace walls.

The hotel plans a roof terrace for 2011. That terrace is already partly built and offers stunning views over the main area of Split's Roman quarter. Fantastic staff, charming rooms and a unique location putting you in direct touch with history make Hotel Peristil the best base to explore the wonderful Croatian city of Split.

Hotel Peristil
Poljana Kraljice Jelene 5
21000 Split, Croatia
Tel: (021) 329 070.
Website: www.hotelperistil.com 
Price: The price for a double room in high season (May-Oct) is 1,200Kn (£140), including breakfast.

Visa and passport information is updated regularly and is correct at the time of publishing. You should verify critical travel information independently with the relevant embassy before you travel.