Review - Cantina Laredo London

Cantina Laredo exterior, London © Cantina Laredo

I could tell Cantina Laredo was a fancy Mexican eaterie by the absence of wall-hung sombreros as themed décor and the impressive tequila selection on the menu.

As I took in the slick-looking bar, smart walnut tables and plush-looking booths, the promise of a refreshingly different experience to the average stodgy high street Mexican beckoned.

Despite just opening four days earlier, London's latest Mexican venture was filling up impressively fast on a warm June evening with couples, small groups and a surfeit of American tourists. A well-established US brand, this is Cantina Laredo's first foray across the pond but its philosophy remains the same; locally sourced produce, and freshly made sauces.

This was keenly highlighted by our waitress, who handed us a silver bowl of nachos along with a menu, in which she eagerly pointed to the top shelf guacamole “made tableside”.

Looking around the restaurant, it was obvious that many diners had fallen for this opening gambit so we decided to follow suit.

Minutes later, our waitress reappeared bearing a platter of small bowls. In minutes, she'd mashed three large, semi-cut, avocados with lime juice, chopped green jalapeño peppers, red onions, tomatoes, coriander and a couple of teaspoons of a "secret" peppery-smelling spice. As I scooped up the chunky green dip with my nachos, I was inspired by the way the guacamole seemed to burst with freshness and layers of flavour; maybe this was something I could whip together at home.

I am not sure I could have accomplished the same with my starters: a superb honey prawn salad that had me smacking my lips in delight. On first impressions, the dish seemed to merely consist of plump, grilled tiger prawns on a bed of greens. However, there was more - the combination of crunchy water chestnuts and roasted walnuts, delicate cubes of juicy mango, creamy goats cheese, all tossed with a sweet honey vinaigrette, elevated this salad to something above the ordinary. Each bite I took seemed better than the last. Even my husband, who'd declared his neatly presented nacho parcels topped with refried beans, melted cheddar cheese and grilled chicken as "delicious", felt a pang of regret when I allowed him to taste my salad.

Unfortunately, the mains then arrived - far too swiftly, in my opinion. Our waitress hovered, unsure what to do with our plates of hot food, compelling my husband to leave his unfinished nachos so she could clear the table and deliver our mains.

My husband chose carne asada y camarones, a generous portion of tender grilled steak topped with bacon-wrapped tiger prawns filled with Mexican Oaxaca cheese and fresh jalapeño pepper slices, accompanied by rice and sautéed vegetables. He tucked into it with gusto, and although it proved satisfying, he said it was "too salty".

As a non-meat eater, I thought the vegetarian options on the Specials and Platillos Mexicanos were limited and our waitress failed to inform me about the separate vegetarian menu. Instead, she recommended the fish of the day. Much as I was looking forward to it, my grilled salmon with chimichurri sauce (parsley, garlic, olive oil and chili), accompanied by sautéed vegetables and rice, was underwhelming - the pink slivers of salmon were cooked to perfection but the sauce was far too subtle for my liking.

I had trouble finishing my meal so we asked for a 15-minute break, whilst we sipped a bottle of excellent unoaked Chilean Chardonnay (£18.95) and soaked up the atmosphere. By now, the restaurant was buzzing with chatty diners, many of them clasping the evidently popular casaritas, the restaurant's signature margarita drink. Tequila lovers were also well catered for - there were over 30 different varieties on the menu, with the price of a superior bottle costing £32.

Finally, we were ready to select our desserts from a tempting selection, which included a traditional Mexican flan, a Mexican apple pie, and strawberry buñuelos (fritters). But it was the Mexican brownie we fell for and it was a wise choice; the enormous slab of sweet-smelling, sticky chocolate heaven encrusted with delicious nutty pecans was served on a hot skillet surrounded by sizzling Mexican brandy butter and topped with vanilla ice cream. We demolished the brownie in minutes, and ended our meal with gratified smiles on our faces.

Would I go back? Yes, without a doubt, not least for that honey prawn salad. Diners looking for a well-priced Mexican restaurant in central London that offers substance as well as style won't be disappointed.

Cantina Laredo
10 Upper St Martin's Lane, St Martin's Courtyard, London, WC2H 9FB
Tel: (0207) 420 0630.
Website: www.cantinalaredo.co.uk  
Price: Our three-course meal for two, plus bottle of wine, cost around £90.