Afternoon tea at the Park Lane Hotel

The Park Lane Hotel may not be the most obvious choice for afternoon tea (that label goes to the Ritz) but it's certainly one of the afternoon-tea takers' best kept secrets. Institutions such as the Ritz, Claridges and the Dorchester get booked up months in advance but it's possible to book a weekend slot at the Park Lane only a week or two ahead of time and the atmosphere is a little more relaxed. Not forgetting, of course, that the Park Lane has one of the most magnificent venues for afternoon tea in London.

Disregard the extravagant Ritz and the subdued grandeur of the Dorchester; the Park Lane Hotel's Palm Court provides the perfect setting for a dignified and relaxing afternoon tea. The Palm Court has its original art deco interior, which dates from when the hotel opened in 1927. Beautiful, fine-woven tapestries depicting fine-feathered birds and delicate plants adorn the pillared walls and a high, golden chequerboard ceiling with an ornate skylight crowns the room. At the far end is a curved wooden bar topped off with a clock set in a blaze of golden sunbeams. Near the entrance sits a harpist who discreetly serenades proceedings. Sumptuous sofas, glass lamps and other tasteful art deco touches elegantly finish off the effect.

Although the exact origins of afternoon tea are uncertain, Anna, Seventh Duchess of Bedford, a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria, is thought to have first introduced the custom to ward off mid-afternoon hunger pangs. An actress, Fanny Kemble, made it popular when she started inviting London's high society to join her for afternoon tea in 1842. The tradition began and along with it grew a number of complex rules and etiquettes. There's no need to worry about them at the Park Lane though. The atmosphere, although quiet, is by no means intimidating and the dress code is smart casual, unlike the jacket and tie required at the Ritz. Waiters and waitresses are friendly, approachable, knowledgeable and happy to talk you through the tea menu.

There are four afternoon tea menus to choose from: Strawberry (£36), Chocolate (£36), Park Lane (£27) and Art Deco (£34), as well as the Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Afternoon Tea (£130 for two). The afternoon teas, with the exception of the Laurent Perrier, are all thematic variations on a selection of four finger sandwiches, served in imaginative breads, two scones served with flavoured clotted creams and preserves, your choice of two fine French pastries served from the pastry trolley, and, of course, tea. The Strawberry tea comes with strawberry Champagne, English strawberry tea, strawberry French pastries and strawberry and elderflower sorbet. The Chocolate tea is served with chocolate Champagne, chocolate and fruit scones, chocolate French pastries and a chocolate delicatessen to accompany your tea. We went for the traditional Park Lane tea and the Art Deco tea, which comes with a glass of Champagne.

One of the toughest decisions to make is the kind of tea to drink. There are 30 different types on offer - the Park Lane didn't win the Tea Guild's Award of Excellence for Afternoon Tea 2007 in recognition of services to the afternoon tea culture for nothing. Choose from the more familiar Darjeeling, Assam and Earl Grey or break with tradition and experiment with Green Mango, Moroccan Mint, Russian Caravan Tea or one of the flowering teas (the tea leaves are wrapped around a bud which ‘flowers' as it brews). We opted for the Flowering Osmanthus, a delicate, sweet and highly aesthetic brew, and the Finest Kenyan, which proved a good, full-bodied option for those wanting to try something different without straying too far from what they know.

Harder still was choosing a pastry from the trolley, which wheels fantastic displays of goodies up to your table. Pastries change on a weekly basis but we had the Mango and Passion Fruit Possett, a mouth-wateringly light and creamy tease of a dessert served in a small glass, the Coconut and Tapioca Compote, a deliciously buttery Raspberry Tart and the meltingly soft Chocolate Mousse. Other options included the Mixed Fruit Tart and Chocolate Tort. Make sure you save enough room; the courses may seem small but they fill you up surprisingly quickly.

Tea is served from 3pm to 6pm, Monday to Sunday. If you can't drag yourself away from the incredible Palm Court you can stay for cocktails, priced from £11.50.

The Park Lane Hotel
Piccadilly
London
W1J 7BX
Tel: 020 7290 7328.
Website: www.palmcourtlondon.co.uk