The real Japan

Sendai is a perfect base for exploring Japan.

Tohoku Color Agency / GettyImages

Sendai The city of Sendai is a stop along the ‘bullet’ train and is an ideal base for making day trips within the Tohoku region. Although I seldom eat meat, I tasted the city’s great claim to fame, ‘beef tongue’, which is a food delicacy served in many different ways. Travellers should book bullet train seats in advance. Although there are a fair few English speakers in Sendai, travellers will face serious language barriers as they venture further out, and signs will only be in Japanese.

Matsushima Matsushima is considered one of the three most beautiful spots in Japan, and there are hopes that it will be nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. All the visitor attractions are within walking distance of the train station. Matsushima is famous for the more than 260 islands of varying shapes and sizes, many covered in pine trees. To really appreciate the many diverse islands I took a ride on a 50-minute pleasure boat ride with English-speaking commentary. Oysters are cultivated here, and between October and March, tourists can enjoy at sample at an oyster hut called Kakigoya. Not far from the bay, the Entsuin Temple has very pretty gardens, planted to retain their beauty throughout the year. For a small contribution, visitors can make a bracelet from Buddhist prayer beads, which are said to drive away evil spirits.

Hiraizumi From Matushima, another bullet train travels to what was once the ancient capital of Hiraizumi, 130m (427ft) above sea level. Dating back to the 11th century, the town has been designated a National Treasure and is a ‘must see’ for its 18 temples. The most impressive Chusonji Temple has an ornate gilded interior and is filled with gold statues. The Japanese are very superstitious, and many of the temples offer tokens and fortunes on pieces of paper for visitors. Fortunately mine had good news but those that are not are left attached to a shrine.

Geibi Gorge Perhaps the most magical part of the trip for me was the 90-minute ride in a traditional Japanese wooden boat through the Geibi Gorge, which has been carved out of limestone by the Satetsu River. For 2km (1 mile), it twists and turns through cliffs that soar up to over 80m (262ft) on either side. Some tour guides will sing a Japanese folk song, which is particularly haunting because of the surrounding acoustics. The fish are so accustomed to being fed that they jump out of the clear water.

Kakunodate The castle town of Kakunodate, a day trip from Sendai, can be traced back to the 1600s during the height of the Samurai reign. The well-conserved streets and the traditional thatched roof architecture makes entering this city feel like stepping into a different world. Several of the houses have been turned into museums, and the Aoyagi Samurai Manor museum is one of the most well-preserved Samurai residences in Japan, featuring a collection of swords, helmets and guns that date back to the 15th century. In the Kakunodate Densyokan museum I watched a skilled Kabazaiku craftsman painstakingly cut a piece of polished mountain cherry bark. The variety of handmade items, from furniture to tea kettles, make for unique although rather expensive gifts. The area is also famous for its 400 cherry trees that blossom in late April.

Hot Springs Japan is a volcanic country, and bathing in hot springs is a large part of the culture. Although most hot springs have accommodation, styles can differ considerably and it is worth investigating what level of privacy you want. The healing properties of the springs will also vary according to the composition of the waters. The springs, which can be indoor or outdoor, are usually mixed gender, and as a general rule, no clothing or swimwear is permitted.

Lake Tazawa This beautiful destination is worth an extended stay for a relaxing break from travelling. Japan’s deepest lake is surrounded by mountains and lush greenery which turns brilliant auburn and golden in autumn. A gold statue of Tatsuko, a girl who believed that the lake would give her eternal beauty and youth, dominates the skyline. The Tazawako Lakeside Hotel offers an authentic Japanese experience. Shoes must be removed before treading on the tatami matting and dining takes place a low table where visitors are obliged to sit cross legged. The hotel offers the option of European-style beds or traditional bedrooms, with removable futons and open dining space inside the room. The basement of the hotel has hot springs, which have been turned into a large pool area. I also visited Tsurunoyu Onsen, formally a Samurai Inn hidden in the mountains, not far from Lake Tazawa. Here is a totally authentic experience with lots of different hot springs. There is a natural outdoor pool, and the hot steam looked particularly inviting. As a whole, a visit to Lake Tazawa is an elegantly simple and romantic spot.

Japanese food There are a few things every traveller should know about Japanese dining. All courses are served simultaneously and can be eaten in any order. Food is eaten with chopsticks, and served in small dishes, although knives and forks are often available. Meals almost always include miso soup and rice. Many different varieties of mushrooms are widely used and soy sauce will be served on the side to provide a more intense flavour. While sushi and sashimi are synonymous with Japanese food, there are lots of other dishes too.